The sign outside the door of the Speedway Cafeteria, which clings like some kind of outmoded garage to the business end of Gasoline Alley, the day before the big race reads DRIVERS AND CREW ONLY, which is about as exciting as a sign can get, especially to a nondriver or noncrew member. The main dish is scalding hot Indiana chili, which has, like the race itself, its own vaguely pugnacious Indiana character...